After 9 months of not being able to find a job I started fantasizing where I would want to travel. I remembered a video I once saw of a sunset in Sri Lanka and it stuck with me. A friend of mine had travelled there 2 years prior and when I asked for her opinion, she mentioned an amazing breakfast she had had there.
Being the foodie that I am, I researched the space and when I landed on their website I thought: "Well I can’t find a job here, I might as well ask if they are looking for someone."
Fast forward 2 months and I moved to Ahangama, a little surfer beach town on the south coast of Sri Lanka. I did no prior research as I wanted to be surprised, I didn't even know what language they spoke until I got there! When I arrived it was dark but something told me I was going to have the best time and my feeling was 100% right.
I spent 8 beautiful months living in Ahangama next to the ocean, working alongside the sweetest local people, living the perfect beach life, full of excitement!
Short on time? Here's the cheat sheet
💭Living in Ahangama is a great choice for those searching for nature, surf, and a friendly community.
🏠The town is small but the exact area you choose should be based on if you want peace, great breaks, or something else.
🛏️Start off by booking a hotel or vacation rental, like LUMA Ahangama Villa, located just outside the city center. This is a perfect place to apartment hunt and get a feel for living here.
🤕Don't rely on luck alone. SafetyWing now offers 2 types of Nomad Insurance coverage options: Essentials for travelers and Complete for expats and digital nomads.
🛂Most are here on a tourist visa but if you plan to work in-person, you'
💰Cost of living is often considered affordable by foreigners but it is steadily increasing. Earn travel rewards on all expenses with a Capital One Venture Card.
📞Save the hassle of getting a local SIM or the cost of roaming with Airolo, an e-SIM that’ll have you connected from the moment you arrive.
☂️Although the town is small and mold is prevalent,
🏖️You'll love the adventures and friendships that await.
General Life in Ahangama
The Sri Lankan people are one of the warmest and kindest people I have met. They are always ready to help with a big smile on their face and it really is what made my experience so lovely!
I would describe Ahangama definitely more on the adventurous side compared to places in e.g. Bali as it has not been on the tourist market for that long. This means that the tourism facilities are not always available or as efficient as other destinations you might be used to. This also means that traveling from A to B may sometimes be a bit more complicated.
Though, you really get a taste of the local and rural life as locals and tourists live intertwined and it enriches your cultural experience which for me was one of my favourite things about Ahangama.
Ahangama taught me that less is more and showed me what is essential in my day to day life; community, nature, sun, and finding beauty in every small corner.
Making Friends
Because Ahangama is a famous surf town, you will find that there is a really laid back surfer island vibe. Generally it attracts nature lovers who are chasing waves in the morning, working remotely in the afternoon, and looking to connect with likeminded people over food in the evening. The nightlife is also really fun, it ranges from live music and karaoke nights to jungle parties and fancy bars.
And don't worry, you don't need to be an advanced surfer or digital nomad to build a community or have fun, I did not surf and worked in a local hotel and I was able to stay connected to others and build meaningful connections.
While Ahangama at first glance may feel small, for me it is a perfect place with a mix of community, nightlife and natural spaces.
There is a present expat community who try to connect people through music, food, and art which makes it easy to meet people.
I also noticed that whenever I was low on energy and wanted to relax, it was easy to retrieve and be in nature and find a quiet space. And when I felt social (and hungry!) again I just visited a few of my favourite places and restaurants near the main road in town.
Nearby Trips
Another favourite thing about Ahangama for me is the ease with which you can take a trip and explore other towns. Just hop on a scooter or catch a bus and go on an adventure to a nearby beach town on the south coast e.g. Hiriketiya, Madiha and Galle.
And if you want something a bit closer but still want a change of environment you can take a trip to Weligama or Midigama which also offer a different vibe and community.
Island Life
Something to keep in mind is that Ahangama is located on an island, meaning that certain products you might be used to are harder to find.
Therefore, I recommend stocking up beforehand on your favourite toiletries and supplements. Especially sunscreen and strong mosquito spray are difficult and expensive to get.
On the other hand, there is an Ayurvedic store in Ahangama which is popular among locals and foreigners and it has a range of natural products for whatever you may need which serves as a good alternative!
Regarding your safety; the local buses are notorious for driving incredibly fast and they will not move out of the way. So rule number 1: if you see a bus on the road; slow down, move to the side and let it pass.
Best Areas to Live in Ahangama
As mentioned, Ahangama is rather small and instead of growing along the coast it's growing more inland.
For me, the perfect place to live is around the rice fields near the train tracks. It honestly feels like a different world when you enter, it's so calm and green even though you are only a 5 minute scooter ride away from town!
I would also think about your priorities when considering where in the town to live. For example:
- Are you there for surfing? Then find something convenient that is located near the best waves and reef breaks e.g. near Kabalana Beach or Midigama (the surfer town next door).
- If you are searching for beautiful beaches you are lucky because there are plenty everywhere! Though my favourite place is definitely 'Ahangama Secret Beach', especially in the early morning you'll find quiet rock pools.
📍Before you sign a long-term lease, I recommend you get to know the town first to see which area fits best. I recommend:
- Budget Stay: Sky Family Villa: This centrally located hotel is a good starting point to get to know the area and explore more than just the beachfront.
- Mid-Tier Stay: LUMA Ahangama Villa: Also set farther back from the shore, this is a great choice for those who prefer peace and quiet.
- Luxury Stay: Lihinya Beach Villa: But if you want to be steps from the sand and have all the amenities of a nice stay, this one's for you.
Cost of Living
The good thing about Ahangama is that you can make life as cheap or expensive as you want. While Ahangama's trendy cafes and restaurants tend to be a bit more expensive (think $10 for a meal), there are also plenty of local rice and curry restaurants where you can order big portions for about 1000 rupees ($3).
Traveling by bus is also very cheap as a 3 hour drive will cost you about $1.5.
TukTuks are more expensive but can be affordable when shared. I would however recommend renting a scooter, this will make your life easier and will give you a lot of freedom to go on your own trips and adventures! There will be many providers but it should cost you about 30.000 rupees a month ($100).
To stay connected, and since WiFi is not always reliable and you can expect frequent power cuts, I would recommend getting a sim card straight upon arrival at the airport. For $3 you can get a pre-charged sim with the provider 'Dialog' and get a 30 day plan containing 10GB of data.
Apartment Costs
Regarding rent it is a bit of luck and also depends what vibe you are after. You can find cheaper home-stays and local homes for about $1000 a month with 3/4 rooms but I would say the cost of a room will be around $300-500$ a month. These are usually quite basic with no WiFi and cold water.
If you decide to go for something fancier up to Western standards like a villa with a pool and garden, be prepared to pay Western prices.
Another option, since there is a large digital nomad community, you can also find co-living spaces where you can live with other digital nomads. Even if you don't live there you can make use of their coworking space and join their community events.
Visa Options
Most nationalities can get a tourist visa upon arrival for $50 which is valid 30 days with the possibility to extend online for up to 270 days. However, since the elections in September 2024 the visa requirements are changing often so please keep yourself informed.
It could be that you would have to do a visa run after a certain time.
In case you are in Sri Lanka to work, don't forget to register for a business visa. The immigration department is very strict and people have met serious complications due to invalid visas. This does not include digital nomads but it does refer to anyone who is working with local businesses and is in physical contact with customers.
For long-term stays most people opted for a residency visa which features a 1-year stay however this has been temporarily suspended but perhaps this will be resumed in the future.
Important to Know
Important to know is that corruption is still quite present in Ahangama and the police often stops tourists on their motorcycles to give out tickets. Make sure that you wear a helmet, your motorcycle is up to standard, and you have a valid international license.
If not, they will threaten to bring you to the police station. In most cases however you can get away with a 5000 rupees fine ($15/$20).
Lastly, don’t bring your most precious clothes! It is incredibly humid and stuff tends to get mouldy very quickly. Washing machines also tend to leave stains and many only wash with cold water.
Will You Move to Ahangama?
All in all, I will miss my time on this magic island. Sri Lanka taught me to slow down and how to be more present in every moment. Mundane things take time and you will need patience.
But next time you are stuck in line at the supermarket just remember that it is a privilege to slow down. Observe the local people, relax, be curious and take everything with a bit of humor.
I am sure you will love it!
.png)
.png)
